Tightly wrap the ricotta in cheesecloth and drain in the fridge overnight.
Whisk the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda together in a medium bowl and set aside.
Spin the ricotta in a food processor fitted with the standard S-blade for 2 minutes, scraping down the bowl as necessary, until completely smooth. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and eggs.
Sift the dry ingredients into the ricotta mixture and follow with the herbs, lemon zest, and a few rasps of nutmeg. Fold with a rubber spatula until just combined.
Heat an electric griddle to 350ºF. Lightly apply nonstick cooking spray, then drop 1/4 cup of the batter on the griddle for each latke; 5 latkes should fit comfortably. Working in 2 batches, cook until browned, flipping only once, 5 minutes per side.