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New Year’s Southern Style: The Cornbread

 

Course: Breads
Keyword: cornbread, Southern

New Year's Southern Style: The Cornbread

ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 40 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
Yes, I know...southern cornbread is typically all corn/no flour, and if you prefer that version, here it is. But this is the one I've been making on New Year's Day for decades and I'm sticking with it.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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Specialized Hardware

9-inch Cast-iron skillet
Instant read digital thermometer
ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 40 minutes
Yield: 8 servings

Procedure

  • Heat the oven to 400℉ with a rack in the middle position. Lube the interior of an 8 or 9-inch cast iron skillet with about 2 teaspoons of oil and wipe out excess with a paper towel, being careful to wipe all the way up the sides. Park the skillet in the oven for 30 minutes.
  • Meanwhile, whisk the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Whisk the eggs, vegetable oil, and buttermilk in a second bowl then add the egg mixture to the cornmeal mixture and fold with a silicone spatula until it just comes together. (See note)
  • Remove the skillet from the oven and carefully pour the batter in, smoothing the top with a spatula. Bake for 25 minutes or until golden brown. The interior temp should be between 200℉-205℉.
  • Remove the cornbread to cool on the stovetop, trivet, or cooling rack for 5 minutes before turning it out of the pan onto a cutting board. Slice (I prefer a serrated bread knife), and serve with plenty of quality butter.
Note: Those of you who recognize this as the "muffin method," pat yourself on the back...but not with the spatula.

New Year’s Southern Style: The Black-Eyed Peas

 

Course: Side Dish
Keyword: Southern

New Year's Southern Style: The Black-Eyed Peas

ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes
Yield: 1 quart
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 4 cups fresh or fresh-frozen (not dried or canned) black-eyed peas*
  • 1/2 large onion, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon dried Italian herb mix
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 15 minutes
Yield: 1 quart

Procedure

  • Place the black-eyed peas in a 4-quart saucepan and add water to cover by 2-inches (about 8 cups). Park over medium-high heat and as soon as the water boils, remove from the heat and carefully pour off any accumulated foam, then drain the peas in a colander and rinse with cold water.
  • Return the peas to the pan and add enough water to cover by 1-inch (about 5 cups). Stir in the onion, salt, herb mix, pepper, and butter. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to maintain a bare simmer, stirring frequently, until the beans are tender, about 1 hour.
  • Serve immediately with plenty of the pot liquor. (Sorry, there's no actual booze here, it's just a southern term for the cooking liquid.)
*Fresh black-eyed peas can often be found in the freezer section of most mega marts. Just make sure they are frozen from fresh, not cooked.
Note: To reheat simply place in a small pot over low heat and add a couple tablespoons of water to each cup of peas. Lid the pot (yes, lid is a verb), and stir occasionally until hot and a little soupy.

New Year’s Southern Style: The Greens

 

Course: Sides & Salads
Keyword: collards, greens, Southern

New Year's Southern Style: The Greens

ACTIVE TIME: 30 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 55 minutes
Greens on New Year's represents "folding" money, and supposedly consuming these on Jan 1 ensures you'll have plenty of it in the coming year. As for the pressure cooker, not only does it magically fold the cooking process from hours down to minutes, I think it helps preserve the texture of the greens.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 4 bunches collard greens (1 1/2 pounds each)
  • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, plus more for seasoning
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
  • 1 pound smoked ham hock
  • hot pepper vinegar, for serving

Specialized Hardware

8-quart pressure cooker
ACTIVE TIME: 30 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 55 minutes

Procedure

  • First things first: make sure you're familiar with your pressure cooker and whatever instructions came with it. (I've seen more than a few chefs driven to tears because they loaded their cookers without knowing how to properly affix the lid...don't let that happen to you.)
  • Fill your sink with cold water and tear the greens off the ribs. I usually Get about 6 pieces off each leaf. Slosh the leaves around in the water to remove dirt, bugs, etc., and tear up the big pieces as you go. You don't cut collards with a knife...'less of course you're a Yankee.
  • Park your pressure cooker over high heat. Grab a large mixing bowl and use it to transfer a few handfuls (about a pound) of greens to the cooker. A lot of water will cling to the greens, which is good, as it will provide a foundation for the pot liquor-literally the soul of the dish. (The bowl is just there to keep the drips off your floor.) Stir the collards for about 5 minutes or until wilted, bright green, and reduced several times in volume. Remove with tongs to another bowl, and repeat with the remaining greens. (This usually takes me 5 batches.)
  • Move all the greens and any accumulated liquid back to the cooker. Stir in the salt, red pepper flakes, vegetable oil, and vinegar, then nestle the ham hock down into the center of the greens. Affix the lid and allow the cooker to come to pressure. When steam is being released in a constant stream, reduce the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes, maintaining a low, even "hiss."
  • After half an hour, kill the heat, and release the pressure on the cooker. (Most modern cookers use a spring-loaded device or valve that will vent off the pressure.) If you don't want to wait, simply move the lidded cooker to the sink, and spray the lid with cold water until the pressure is relieved and the safety lock releases. Then, open the cooker, and use tongs to remove the greens to a bowl. Leave the hock and the liquid inside and reaffix the lid. Bring the cooker back to pressure over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and cook for another 30 minutes to thoroughly break down the hock meat.
  • Release the pressure and open the cooker. At this point the hock will be very broken down, and the liquid will be fragrant. Remove the hock and allow it to cool until the meat can be picked off and added to the greens.
  • Serve with an extra sprinkling of red pepper flakes or a few dashes of vinegar, if desired.

AB’s Christmas Crack

 

Course: party food, Snack
Keyword: Sweets

AB's Christmas Crack

ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 43 minutes
Yield: 6 quarts
For decades, my family used to make this horrifyingly addictive candy-like stuff during the holidays that we always called "white trash." This year, I was yearning for an upgrade, so we added espresso powder and crushed cocoa nibs.
You're welcome/I'm sorry.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 3 1/2 cups Cheerios
  • 3 cups Rice Chex cereal
  • 3 cups Corn Chex cereal
  • 2 1/4 cups plain M&M's candies
  • 2 1/2 cups salted mixed nuts
  • 2 cups small pretzels
  • 1/4 cup cocoa nibs (easily acquired via the web)
  • 5 cups white chocolate chips or finely chopped bars (we like Ghirardelli) (also, see note)
  • 1/4 cup instant espresso powder NOT coffee ground for espresso
ACTIVE TIME: 10 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 43 minutes
Yield: 6 quarts

Procedure

  • Combine the Cheerios, Rice Chex, Corn Chex, M&M's, nuts, pretzels, and cacao nibs in your biggest mixing bowl.
  • Roll out a couple large sheets of wax or parchment paper on a work surface away from direct sunlight or heat.
  • Combine the white chocolate and espresso powder in a medium-size, microwave-safe bowl and nuke on high power in 30-second increments, stirring with a silicone spatula between each blast. After about 5 nukes (yes, that's a technical term), the chocolate would start to melt and smooth out. If there are still a few solid chips here and there after 5 blasts, don't worry about it as it's better to under-melt a bit than to burn even a little of the mass.
  • Pour the melted chocolate over the cereal mixture and mix very well with a large silicone spatula, or better yet, your hands wearing disposable gloves.
  • Divide the mixture in half and spread evenly on the wax or parchment paper. Leave it for at least 30 minutes to set before breaking up and stashing in airtight containment.
Note: Don't get me started about why white chocolate is called "white chocolate" even though it's not actually, technically, or legally, chocolate.

Pear Cranberry Pie: Reloaded

 

Course: Sweets
Keyword: Baking, Desserts, Fall, Fruit, Holidays, Pear Cranberry Pie, Thanksgiving

Pear Cranberry Pie: Reloaded

ACTIVE TIME: 1 hour
TOTAL TIME: 3 hours 30 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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For the crust

  • 2 3/4 cups, approximately all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
  • 6 tablespoons all-natural cranberry juice (not cocktail), chilled

For the filling

  • 3 1/2 pounds pears (a mixture of Anjou and Bosc)
  • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar, divided
  • 1 cup Just Cranberry Sauce, room temperature
  • 1/4 cup tapioca flour
  • 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

Specialized Hardware

Food processor
Digital kitchen scale
9 1/2" x 2" tart pan with removable bottom (a wonderful multitasker)
ACTIVE TIME: 1 hour
TOTAL TIME: 3 hours 30 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Procedure

Crust procedure:

  • Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and pulse 3-4 times. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture looks mealy, 5-6 times. Then, add the shortening and pulse until incorporated, another 3-5 pulses. Remove the lid and drizzle in the cranberry juice. Replace the lid and pulse until the mixture begins to hold together and pull away from the sides of the bowl.
  • Dump the mixture onto a clean surface and squeeze together with your hands to form a smooth ball. Divide the ball in half and press each into a disk about 1-inch thick. Wrap each dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (You can refrigerate longer, even overnight, but the dough will have to sit at room temp for 15 minutes to be malleable enough to roll.)

Filling procedure:

  • Peel, core, and slice pears into 1/8-inch slices and move to a large mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the sugar and toss with your hands to thoroughly coat. Set aside for 45 minutes, tossing again halfway through, then transfer to a colander set over a large bowl and set aside to drain for 45 minutes.
  • Transfer the accumulated juices (you should have about 1/4 cup) to a small saucepan and reduce over medium heat to 2 tablespoons, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.
  • Stir the remaining sugar into the pear slices along with the Just Cranberry Sauce, tapioca flour, lemon juice, salt, and thyme. Set aside.

Assembly procedure:

  • Crank your oven to 400℉ and move a rack to the lowest position.
  • Place a 12" x 24" piece of wax paper on a clean work surface and lightly dust with flour. Remove the dough disks from the refrigerator and allow them to come to room temp, about 15 minutes. Discard the plastic wrap from one and place the dough on the wax paper. Dust with a bit more flour and roll into a 12" x 12" circle. Carefully peel the wax paper off and place the dough into the tart pan, gently pressing it into the edges. (See the note on dough movement below.)
  • Pour the pear mixture into the bottom of the pan, then roll out the second dough disk in the same manner as the first. Place this dough over the pears and seal the edges of the pie, trimming any excess dough. Make a few slits in the top of the crust with a paring knife to give steam a way out. Park the pie in a foil-lined sheet pan and brush the top of the crust with the reduced juice. Bake for 1 hour.
  • Transfer the pie to a cooling rack and rest for at least 4 hours before removing from the tart pan and slicing.
Note on dough movement:I'm really bad at moving doughs once they're rolled, and my hands run hot so here's how I roll...so to speak: After rolling out the dough, I slide a cookie sheet under it. I position the flat, removable bottom of the tart pan and center it on the dough. While holding the round in place, I flip the whole thing over, remove the cookie sheet, and peel the wax paper away, leaving the dough atop the round. (You can't see the round at this point because the dough is wider.) I then gently fold back the edges of the dough so that the edge of the round is revealed. I then slide the round off the counter and drop it into the tart pan. Finally, I unfold the edge of the dough and mold it into the side of the pan. Make sense? I sure hope so.
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Just Cranberry Sauce

 

Course: Sides & Salads
Keyword: Cranberry Sauce

Just Cranberry Sauce

ACTIVE TIME: 15 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 6 hours 35 minutes
Yield: 8
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 4 fluid ounces (1/2 cup) light agave syrup
  • 4 fluid ounces (1/2 cup) honey
  • 2 fluid ounces (1/4 cup) 100% cranberry juice, not cocktail
  • 2 fluid ounces (1/4 cup) freshly squeezed orange juice
  • 1/4 teaspoon five-spice powder
  • 4 1/2 cups fresh cranberries
  • Butter lettuce leaves, for serving
  • Sour cream, for serving
  • candied ginger, thinly sliced, for serving

Specialized Hardware

Digital kitchen scale
1 3-cup silicone mold, or several smaller molds
ACTIVE TIME: 15 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 6 hours 35 minutes
Yield: 8

Procedure

  • Combine the agave syrup, honey, cranberry juice, orange juice, and five-spice powder in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a steady simmer for 5 minutes.
  • Add the cranberries, boost the heat to medium, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring often, until most of the cranberries have burst open and the mixture has thickened. Do not cook beyond 15 minutes or the pectin will start to break down. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
  • Spoon the cranberry sauce into the silicone mold (or molds) and cool on the counter for 30 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, overnight would be even better. (See note)
  • Turn the mold onto a plate lined with lettuce leaves and serve with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of candied ginger.
Note: Just for giggles, I often mold my cranberry sauce in a leftover 14-oz size can so that when I serve it, my guests think I just plopped the stuff out of a can, which is essentially true. But then they taste it. It's like a magic trick.

The Apple Pie

 

Course: Sweets
Keyword: Baking, Desserts, Fall, Fruit, Holidays, Thanksgiving, The Apple Pie

The Apple Pie

ACTIVE TIME: 1 hour
TOTAL TIME: 3 hours 40 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
I can finally say, after tinkering with my original recipe on and off for a decade, this is the apple pie I want when I want apple pie, a craving that rises constant in me from the first rattle of fall leaves. We've upped the grains of paradise (see note below), traded out the apple cider for apple cider vinegar, and enhanced the texture by inviting liquid pectin to the party, easily found in most mega marts. We've also changed the apple mixture, replacing the original golden delicious with Pink Lady. I realize some of you may not be able to land these where you live, so feel free to replace whose with Winesaps, or just stick with Honeycrisps and Granny Smiths.
Some of you will notice that I've eschewed the pie bird relied upon in earlier iterations. As much as I dig their retro-homey vibe, truth is, slitting the top crust does as good a job of venting. Yes, the top crust does sometimes crack without the bird there to support the middle, but so what...I'm going to eat it and I trust you will too.
This recipe first appeared on altonbrown.com.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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FOR THE CRUST

  • 2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 teaspoons vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, chilled
  • 7 tablespoons Laird's Applejack or apple brandy, such as calvados, chilled

FOR THE FILLING

  • 4 1/2 pounds (8 large) apples, mix of Pink Lady, Honeycrisp, and Granny Smith
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar, divided
  • 1/4 cup tapioca flour
  • 2 tablespoons liquid pectin (we like Certo)
  • 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground grains of paradise

Specialized Hardware

Food processor
Digital kitchen scale
9 1/2" x 2" tart pan with removable bottom (a wonderful multitasker)
ACTIVE TIME: 1 hour
TOTAL TIME: 3 hours 40 minutes
Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Procedure

Crust Procedure:

  • Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in the bowl of your food processor and pulse 3-4 times. Add the butter and pulse until texture looks mealy, 5-6 pulses. Then, add the shortening and pulse until incorporated, another 3-4 pulses. Remove the lid and drizzle in 5 tablespoons of the Applejack. Replace the lid and pulse 5 times. Add the remaining Applejack and pulse until the mixture begins to hold together and pull away from the sides of the bowl.
  • Dump the mixture onto a clean surface and squeeze together with your hands to form a smooth ball. Divide the ball in half and press each into a disk about 1-inch thick. Wrap each dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. (You can refrigerate longer, even overnight, but the dough will have to sit at room temperature for 15 minutes to be malleable enough to roll.

Filling Procedure:

  • Peel, core, and slice the apples into 1/4-inch slices and move to a large mixing bowl. Add 1/4 cup of the sugar and toss with your hands to thoroughly coat. Set aside for 45 minutes, tossing halfway through, then transfer to a colander set over a large bowl and set aside to drain for 45 minutes.
  • Transfer the accumulated juices (you should have about 1/4 cup) to a small saucepan and reduce over medium heat to 2 tablespoons, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.
  • Stir the remaining sugar into the apple slices along with the tapioca flour, liquid pectin, apple cider vinegar, salt, and grains of paradise. Set aside.

Assembly Procedure:

  • Crank your oven to 400℉ and move a rack to the lowest position.
  • Place a 12" x 24" piece of wax paper on a clean work surface and lightly dust with flour. Remove the dough disks from the refrigerator and allow them to come to room temperature, 15 minutes. Discard the plastic wrap from one and place the dough on the wax paper. Dust with a bit more flour and roll into a 12" x 12" circle. Carefully peel the wax paper off and place the dough into the tart pan, gently pressing it into the edges. (See the note on dough movement below).
  • Arrange the apples in the bottom of the pan in concentric circles starting around the edges, working toward the center, which will result in a slight mound shape. Pour any remaining liquid evenly over the apples.
  • Roll out the second dough disk in the same manner as the first. Place this dough over the apples and seal the edges of the pie, trimming any excess dough. Make a few slits in the top of the crust with a paring knife to give steam a way out. Park the pie on a foil-lined sheet pan and brush the top of the crust with the reduced juice. Bake for 1 hour, 10 minutes.
  • Transfer the pie to a cooling rack and rest for at least 4 hours before removing from the tart pan and slicing.
Note regarding Grains of Paradise: Aframomum melegueta is a cousin of ginger and its seeds are known as "grains of paradise." I have absolutely no idea why this spice is not more popular, because when crushed, the seeds deliver a spectacular complexity, a mingling of black pepper, lemon, cardamom, and something that reminds me of brown butter. Although GoP is welcomed on many a meat dish, it's on fruit that I really read the magic. This pie, is not this pie without this spice. You won't find it at the mega mart but it can be found online from sources such as spicehouse.com.
Note on dough movement: I'm really bad at moving doughs once they're rolled, and my hands run hot so here's how I roll...so to speak: After rolling out the dough, I slide a cookie sheet under it. I position the flat, removable bottom of the tart pan and center it on the dough. While holding the round in place, I flip the whole thing over, remove the cookie sheet, and peel the wax paper away, leaving the dough atop the round. (You can't see the round at this point because the dough is wider.) I then gently fold back the edges of the dough so that the edge of the round is revealed. I then slide the round off the counter and drop it into the tart pan. Finally, I unfold the edge of the dough and mold it into the sides of the pan. Make sense? I sure hope so.

Dark and Funky Caramels

 

Course: Dessert
Keyword: Candy, caramel

Dark and Funky Caramels

ACTIVE TIME: 15 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 8 hours 40 minutes
Yield: 60 caramels
A lot of caramels taste too sweet to me, while others just taste acrid due to overcooking of the sugar. Including a few drops of liquid smoke (quality brands do not contain a bunch of chemicals, just condensed smoke), and a bit of soy, add some umami funk, which I really dig. Be warned though, these things are sticky; I recommend sucking not chewing, unless of course you have some fillings you want to be rid of.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • No-stick spray (for greasing the pan)
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/3 cup light corn syrup
  • 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 1 cup heavy cream, at room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 12 drops liquid smoke (We like Lazy Kettle brand)
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature

Specialized Hardware

Parchment paper
Digital scale
4-quart heavy bottom pot
Digital instant-read thermometer
Wire cooling rack
Wax paper
Food grade silica desiccant pack (Optional but highly recommended and easily purchased on-line.)
ACTIVE TIME: 15 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 8 hours 40 minutes
Yield: 60 caramels

Procedure

  • Cut two 7" x 16" pieces of parchment paper. Lightly spray an 8-inch square metal baking pan with no-stick spray (just enough to actually help the paper adhere to the pan, which is kinda funny when you think about it). Line the pan with the paper positioning one piece horizontally and the other vertically, pressing into the corners creating a snug fit. A few inches of paper should hang over each side of the pan, creating a kind of sling. Spray the paper, including the sides with the spray. (Candy is sticky stuff.)
  • Combine the sugar, water, corn syrup, and cream of tartar in a 4-quart, heavy-gauge pot and place over medium-high heat. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture comes to a boil, about 4 minutes. (See note.)
  • Meanwhile, combine the cream, soy sauce, and liquid smoke in a liquid measuring cup. Have this and the butter standing nearby your cooktop.
  • Continue to boil the sugar syrup on medium-high heat until it reaches 230℉, then reduce the heat to medium and cook, without stirring, until the syrup is light golden and is approaching 300℉, 6-8 minutes. Gently swirl the pan to help ensure syrup is evenly heated.
  • Continue boiling the syrup, swirling (carefully) occasionally, until syrup turns deep amber and hits 350℉, another 2-3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, gently swirl again, and cool for 2 minutes.
  • Carefully pour in the cream mixture followed by the butter and stir gently, The syrup will bubble up at this point but will settle down as you stir. Return the caramel to medium heat, stir until the butter is completely melted, then continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the mixture reaches 260℉, 7-9 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately pour into the prepared pan. Tap around the edge of the pan gently with a wooden spoon to release air bubbles.
  • Cool on a wire rack for 30 minutes then transfer to the refrigerator, uncovered, for at least 8 hours, or overnight.
  • The next day, remove the caramel from the fridge and place on the counter for 15 minutes, Lift the caramel out of the pan by grasping the edges of the parchment and place on a cutting board. Peel off the paper and discard. Cut the caramels into 1" x 1" squares with a large heavy knife and place on a pan or large plate lined with wax paper. (Make sure the caramels aren't touching each other.)
  • Cut 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" squares of wax paper (you'll need about 60 squares), and wrap each caramel tightly, twisting the ends to seal. If the caramels become too sticky to handle, park the pan in the fridge for about 10 minutes to firm up.
  • Store wrapped caramels in an airtight container with a desiccant pack and store for up to 2 weeks. (If you skip the desiccant the caramels will be good, but very gooey.)
Note: Wooden spoons are often called for in candy making because they don't conduct heat the way metal does. In recipes that call for sugar only, that heat conduction can result in crystallization. In this case, crystallization is prevented by the inclusion of a secondary sugar in the form of corn syrup, so really the use of wood is about not burning your hand.

Holiday Dressing Muffins

 

Course: Side Dish
Cuisine: American
Keyword: Holidays

Holiday Dressing Muffins

ACTIVE TIME: 30 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 14 hours 30 minutes
Yield: 12 muffins
Although I've long raged against the concept of stuffing a turkey, a practice that does little but slow the cooking while producing an inedible gluey glop, I am a big fan of dressing, essentially stuffing cooked in a pan or dish. When you look at the ingredients, a dressing is really a kind of super-savory bread pudding, and indeed, like a good bread pudding, the delight of devouring it is greatly keyed (in my mouth at least) by the contrast between outer crunch and inner suppleness. As a result of copious experimentation, we have found that baking in a muffin tin is the best way to ensure every diner the best of both worlds.
Please note that there is meat here, breakfast sausage to be exact, which in the south at least, is typically flavored with sage and black pepper. I'd love to tell you that you can produce a perfectly serviceable vegetarian version by leaving it out, but...alas...no.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 20 ounces bread-ciabatta, French bread, or a mixture, torn into 1-inch pieces
  • 1 stick room temperature unsalted butter, divided
  • 8 ounces bulk breakfast sausage
  • 2 1/2 cups chopped yellow onion
  • 2 1/2 cups chopped celery
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon rubbed sage
  • 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard (we like Coleman's)
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
  • 1 1/4 cups chopped fresh parsley
  • 1/4 cup chopped celery leaves
  • 4 large eggs, beaten
  • 2 1/2 cups chicken stock

Specialized Hardware

12-cup muffin tin (nonstick surface preferred)
2 half sheet pans
12-inch Cast-iron skillet
4-ounce ice cream disher (helpful but not necessary)
ACTIVE TIME: 30 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 14 hours 30 minutes
Yield: 12 muffins

Procedure

  • Evenly grease the cups of a 12-inch muffin tin with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Place in the refrigerator for at least an hour. (This isn't about preventing sticking as much as it is creating a crispy crust.)
  • Heat your oven to 250℉. Arrange the bread pieces between the two half sheet pans and bake on the middle and lower third racks for 1 hour, switching the top pan to the lower rack and vice versa, after 30 minutes. The bread should be crisp and dried without browning. Transfer to your largest mixing bowl and set aside.
  • Cook the sausage in a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat, breaking up any chunks with the back of a wooden spoon and cook until the fat has rendered out, and the sausage is browned, about 6 minutes.
  • Melt the remaining butter in the skillet then add the onion, celery, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, dry mustard, and rosemary and cook for 7 minutes, stirring frequently. Kill the heat, stir in the parsley and celery leaves and deposit the mixture into the bowl with the bread and mix well. Cool for 5 minutes.
  • Combine the eggs and stock in a large measuring cup or bowl, then add to the bread bowl in two installments, allowing the first to be absorbed before adding the second.
  • Retrieve the buttered muffin tin from the fridge and using an ice cream disher or large spoon, scoop about 5 1/2 ounces into your hand. Gently squeeze and shape into a ball shape and park in a muffin cup. Repeat with the remaining dressing until you've filled all the cups. If you have any leftover, evenly distribute amongst the cups and shape roughly into mounds.
  • Tear a piece of aluminum foil 24-inches long and spray the dull side with no-stick spray. Cover the muffins tightly with the foil (lubed side down of course), and refrigerate overnight, or up to two days.
  • When ready to bake, crank your oven to 350℉. When it reaches temp, remove the muffin tin from the fridge and place directly onto the middle rack of the oven, and bake for 20 minutes. Then, carefully remove the foil and bake 35 more minutes, until the dressing is deeply browned and crisp.
  • Remove and cool for at least 15 minutes on a trivet or stovetop. To release, loosen the edges of the muffins with a small offset spatula or butter knife until the muffins release from the pan.
Serve alongside the usual Thanksgiving or holiday fare. If you have leftovers, split one, toast in your oven, then top with a fried egg for breakfast. Or, split and toast and stuff with turkey meat and devour biscuit-style.

Shepherd’s Pie- RELOADED

 

Course: Mains
Keyword: Beef, Casserole, Comfort Food, Meats, Shepherd's Pie, Weeknight Dinner

Shepherd's Pie- RELOADED

ACTIVE TIME: 45 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 40 minutes
Yield: 8 servings
When fall finally cools things down, and sweaters are donned and the fires lit, this is the first dish I crave. The French have several versions and the English dozens, but whether you start with a hash of leftover roast or use ground lamb (or mutton when you can get it), mashed potatoes must top the lot or a shepherd's pie it ain't. As for the potatoes, we've included cooking them from scratch below, but if you have leftovers feel free to use them.
Photo by Lynne Calamia
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  • 2 pounds russet potatoes
  • 3 tablespoons kosher salt, divided
  • 1/2 cup half-and-half
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut in cubes
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 cup chopped onion
  • 1 1/2 cups peeled and finely diced carrot
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 pounds ground lamb
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 3/4 teaspoon curry powder
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 cup unsalted chicken stock
  • 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 cup frozen English peas

Specialized Hardware

12-inch Cast-iron skillet
ACTIVE TIME: 45 minutes
TOTAL TIME: 1 hour 40 minutes
Yield: 8 servings

Procedure

  • Heat oven to 400ºF with a rack in the middle position.
  • Peel the potatoes and cut in 1-inch chunks. Put in a 4-quart pot and add 1 tablespoon of the salt, and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Park over high heat, cover with a lid and bring to a boil, then uncover, lower the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until tender, 8-10 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the half-and-half and butter in a microwave safe container and nuke until warmed through, about 35 seconds.
  • Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Mash with a potato masher then add the warm half-and-half mixture and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Continue mashing until smooth then stir in the egg yolk. Set aside.
  • Set a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil. When you see it shimmer (about 1.5 minutes), add the onion, carrots, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes, then stir in the garlic followed by the lamb, black pepper, curry powder, rosemary, thyme, and remaining salt. Stir, breaking up any clumps of meat with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook until the lamb is brown, about 5 minutes.
  • Sprinkle the flour over the lamb mix, then stir and cook for another minute. Stir in the tomato paste, chicken stock, and Worcestershire sauce. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to low, cover with a lid, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.
  • Kill the heat and stir in the peas. Then, spoon the mashed potatoes over the top of the meat mixture and smooth with an offset or silicone spatula. Move to the oven and bake for 30 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Cool for 15 minutes before scooping and serving.
Note: To reheat, I usually just spoon it into a bowl, cover loosely with a bit of plastic wrap and microwave on high until warmed through.

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